Repair methods

Foundation repair methods, compared

Foundation repair is a small number of techniques applied in a lot of combinations. Once you know what the techniques are and what each one is for, an estimate stops being an opaque number and becomes a plan you can evaluate — and you can tell whether two quotes are really for the same job.

Nearly everything is one of three ideas

Strip away the trade names and foundation repair does one of three things.

  1. Put the weight on something that will hold it. The foundation is resting on soil that cannot reliably carry it, so you extend it down to something that can. Every pier and piling method is a version of this, and the umbrella term is underpinning.
  2. Fill the gap underneath. The concrete is intact but the soil beneath it has shrunk away or washed out, leaving a void. Pump material in to fill it and lift the slab back. Mudjacking and slabjacking do this.
  3. Stop the water. Drainage correction, grading, root barriers, crawl space moisture control. Unglamorous, frequently quoted separately, and often the thing that determines whether the structural work holds.

A good repair plan usually includes more than one. Piering a house and leaving the drainage problem in place tends to buy a few good years rather than a fix.

The support methods, side by side

Four foundation support methods in cross-section Cross-sections comparing a concrete pressed piling made of stacked segments, a steel push pier driven as a pipe, a helical pier with screw plates along its shaft, and a wide drilled pier bored down to rock. foundation beam foundation beam foundation beam foundation beam Concrete pressed piling pressed with the house as the reaction force Steel push pier driven through the clay to load-bearing strata Helical pier screwed in; torque readings give capacity on install Drilled pier bored and poured where rock sits close to the surface Strata active clay stiff clay load-bearing strata / rock
The method is chosen for the soil profile and the load the pier has to carry, not arbitrarily — which is why two contractors can propose different systems for the same house. It is a fair question to ask any contractor why the method they have proposed is the right one for your soil.

The method is chosen for the soil profile and the load, not for the invoice. But the choice has a large effect on the total, so it is entirely fair to ask any contractor why the system they have proposed is the right one for your ground.

About these figures

Foundation Repair IQ does not quote prices and does not perform repairs. The figures below are general industry ranges published for orientation only — not quotes, not estimates for your property, and not binding on any contractor. Foundation pricing is set by the contractor after an on-site evaluation, and your actual cost may fall outside any range shown here.

Foundation repair methods compared
Method How it works Typically used when General range
Concrete pressed pilings Segments hydraulically pressed in using the house as resistance Deep, uniform Texas clay — the regional default Several hundred each
Steel push piers Pipe driven to load-bearing strata, then load transferred Where you need support independent of the clay above $1,000 – $2,000 each
Helical piers Screwed in with a torque motor; capacity measured on install Lighter loads, tight access, not enough weight to press against $1,400 – $2,500 each
Drilled piers Bored and poured in place Shallow rock — west Austin, north San Antonio, west Tarrant $1,000 – $2,800 each
Mudjacking / foam Material pumped under the slab to fill voids and lift Sunken flatwork: driveways, patios, walkways, garage slabs $5 – $25 per sq ft
Crawl space repair Reset piers, replace failed timber, shim back to level Pier and beam homes — the pre-war housing stock Mid four figures up
Crack injection Epoxy or polyurethane injected to seal Non-structural cracks that are not still moving Several hundred per crack

The variable that decides your bill

It is not usually the method. It is where the support points have to go and how hard they are to reach.

Three ways a contractor reaches a support point Three cross-sections of a house on a slab. The first shows a pier installed from outside at the perimeter. The second shows an interior pier reached by cutting through the slab from inside the house. The third shows an interior pier reached by hand-digging a tunnel underneath the slab from outside. Route 1 Perimeter Dig outside, press, backfill Machine access. Fastest and cheapest per support point. Route 2 Through the slab Cut a hole in the floor Flooring out, concrete cut, patch after. Post-tension cables must be located first. Route 3 Tunnel underneath hand-dug Dig in from outside, under the slab Interior untouched, but priced per linear foot of tunnel before any pier goes in.
A support point on the perimeter and the same support point in the middle of the house cost very different amounts, because of what it takes to reach it. This is the single biggest reason two quotes for one house can differ by a multiple — check whether both include interior work before comparing the totals.

A perimeter support point is installed from outside with a machine. An interior one has a house sitting on top of where it needs to go, and reaching it — either by cutting through the slab or by hand-digging a tunnel underneath — routinely costs more than the pier does. This single factor explains most cases where two quotes for one house differ by a multiple. Before comparing totals, check whether both include interior work.

What a repair plan should actually contain

Whatever method is proposed, a plan you can evaluate has these in it. A plan that does not is not necessarily dishonest, but you have no way to judge it:

  • The floor elevation readings the diagnosis is based on, as numbers
  • The number of support points and where they go, ideally on a drawing
  • The method and the target bearing depth
  • Whether an engineer designed the repair and whether one signs off afterwards
  • Whether the plumbing has been tested, and what happens if a leak is found
  • Whether the aim is to stabilize or to lift, and how much recovery is expected
  • Who pulls the permit
  • What the warranty covers, for how long, and whether it transfers
  • What is explicitly excluded — usually cosmetic repair and landscaping
Worth doing first, whatever the method

Get a hydrostatic plumbing test. A leaking supply or sewer line under a slab causes movement on its own, and underpinning a house without finding the leak means paying for the structural work and then watching it happen again. It costs a few hundred dollars and it either rules a leak out or changes the entire plan — including, sometimes, who pays, since sudden plumbing leaks are a covered peril under more Texas policies than soil movement is.

Questions about repair methods

Which foundation repair method is best?

There is no best method, only a method suited to your soil, your load and your access — which is why two competent contractors can propose different systems for the same house and both be defensible. Concrete pressed pilings suit deep uniform clay and are the Texas workhorse. Push piers go to genuine load-bearing strata and are more definitive. Helical piers work where there is not enough structural weight to press against. Drilled piers are for shallow rock. What should worry you is not which one is proposed but whether the contractor can explain why it fits your site.

Why do two contractors propose completely different repairs?

Usually because they are solving the problem differently, not pricing the same solution differently. One may plan to support the perimeter only; another may include interior piers reached by tunneling. One may be proposing to lift the slab back toward its original elevation; another may be proposing to stabilize it where it is and stop further movement. Those are genuinely different jobs with different risks. Line up the scope — number of support points, method, target depth, what happens to the plumbing, what the warranty covers — and the price difference usually explains itself.

What is the difference between stabilizing and lifting?

Stabilizing means installing support so the foundation stops moving from where it currently is. Lifting means using that support to raise the settled sections back toward their original elevation. Lifting sounds obviously better and often is not: forcing an older house back to level can crack plaster, break tile and open new gaps in finishes that had long since adjusted to the settled position. A good contractor will tell you how much recovery they expect and where they intend to stop, and "as close as the house will tolerate" is a more honest answer than "perfectly level".

How long does foundation repair take?

Most piering jobs on a typical home are a two to five day exercise once work starts, and a straightforward exterior perimeter job is often a single day. The schedule stretches when interior piers are reached by tunneling under the slab, when drainage work is bundled in, or when an engineer's post-repair elevation survey is part of the contract. The longer part is usually before the crew arrives — getting estimates, the engineer's input if you want it, and the permit.

Do foundation repairs come with a warranty?

Almost always, and they vary enormously. The questions that matter: does it cover the support points only or the whole structure, how long does it run, does it transfer to a future buyer, and are later adjustments free or billed? A transferable lifetime warranty on the piers is not the same thing as a warranty on your house staying level. Two quotes a few thousand apart can carry very different warranties, and that difference usually outlives the price difference.

Will the repair fix the cracks?

Partly, and this surprises people. Lifting a settled section closes some cracks as the structure returns toward its original geometry — and opens others, because not everything moves back the way it moved out. Cosmetic repair afterwards is normally excluded from the foundation quote: drywall patching, repainting, re-tuckpointing brick and re-hanging doors are usually your problem. Budget for it separately and ask explicitly what is and is not included.

Related: signs of foundation problems · what repairs cost · slab repair cost · foundation repair in Texas

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