Repair methods
Foundation repair methods, compared
Foundation repair is a small number of techniques applied in a lot of combinations. Once you know what the techniques are and what each one is for, an estimate stops being an opaque number and becomes a plan you can evaluate — and you can tell whether two quotes are really for the same job.
Nearly everything is one of three ideas
Strip away the trade names and foundation repair does one of three things.
- Put the weight on something that will hold it. The foundation is resting on soil that cannot reliably carry it, so you extend it down to something that can. Every pier and piling method is a version of this, and the umbrella term is underpinning.
- Fill the gap underneath. The concrete is intact but the soil beneath it has shrunk away or washed out, leaving a void. Pump material in to fill it and lift the slab back. Mudjacking and slabjacking do this.
- Stop the water. Drainage correction, grading, root barriers, crawl space moisture control. Unglamorous, frequently quoted separately, and often the thing that determines whether the structural work holds.
A good repair plan usually includes more than one. Piering a house and leaving the drainage problem in place tends to buy a few good years rather than a fix.
The support methods, side by side
The method is chosen for the soil profile and the load, not for the invoice. But the choice has a large effect on the total, so it is entirely fair to ask any contractor why the system they have proposed is the right one for your ground.
Foundation Repair IQ does not quote prices and does not perform repairs. The figures below are general industry ranges published for orientation only — not quotes, not estimates for your property, and not binding on any contractor. Foundation pricing is set by the contractor after an on-site evaluation, and your actual cost may fall outside any range shown here.
| Method | How it works | Typically used when | General range |
|---|---|---|---|
| Concrete pressed pilings | Segments hydraulically pressed in using the house as resistance | Deep, uniform Texas clay — the regional default | Several hundred each |
| Steel push piers | Pipe driven to load-bearing strata, then load transferred | Where you need support independent of the clay above | $1,000 – $2,000 each |
| Helical piers | Screwed in with a torque motor; capacity measured on install | Lighter loads, tight access, not enough weight to press against | $1,400 – $2,500 each |
| Drilled piers | Bored and poured in place | Shallow rock — west Austin, north San Antonio, west Tarrant | $1,000 – $2,800 each |
| Mudjacking / foam | Material pumped under the slab to fill voids and lift | Sunken flatwork: driveways, patios, walkways, garage slabs | $5 – $25 per sq ft |
| Crawl space repair | Reset piers, replace failed timber, shim back to level | Pier and beam homes — the pre-war housing stock | Mid four figures up |
| Crack injection | Epoxy or polyurethane injected to seal | Non-structural cracks that are not still moving | Several hundred per crack |
The variable that decides your bill
It is not usually the method. It is where the support points have to go and how hard they are to reach.
A perimeter support point is installed from outside with a machine. An interior one has a house sitting on top of where it needs to go, and reaching it — either by cutting through the slab or by hand-digging a tunnel underneath — routinely costs more than the pier does. This single factor explains most cases where two quotes for one house differ by a multiple. Before comparing totals, check whether both include interior work.
What a repair plan should actually contain
Whatever method is proposed, a plan you can evaluate has these in it. A plan that does not is not necessarily dishonest, but you have no way to judge it:
- The floor elevation readings the diagnosis is based on, as numbers
- The number of support points and where they go, ideally on a drawing
- The method and the target bearing depth
- Whether an engineer designed the repair and whether one signs off afterwards
- Whether the plumbing has been tested, and what happens if a leak is found
- Whether the aim is to stabilize or to lift, and how much recovery is expected
- Who pulls the permit
- What the warranty covers, for how long, and whether it transfers
- What is explicitly excluded — usually cosmetic repair and landscaping
Get a hydrostatic plumbing test. A leaking supply or sewer line under a slab causes movement on its own, and underpinning a house without finding the leak means paying for the structural work and then watching it happen again. It costs a few hundred dollars and it either rules a leak out or changes the entire plan — including, sometimes, who pays, since sudden plumbing leaks are a covered peril under more Texas policies than soil movement is.